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The "Big 3" is a very easy mod to your car's electrical system that will help it maintain higher voltages for more power hungry amplifiers. If you've ever measured your voltage drop when playing music with the volume to the max with your engine running, you'll see that instead of reading 14.4v or 13.8 (depending on car), your voltmeter will read 13v, 12v, or even lower! You can easily tell if you're experiencing these voltage drops by watching your headlights. If they dim while playing your system, you most definitely have voltage drop going on. This voltage drop could potentially cause harm to your amp if it is significant enough. I had a Treo SSX 1500.1 blow because I was letting my voltage drop to about 9-10v, which the amp didn't like very much.

What causes this problem are the stock, small gauge wires used to connect various electrical components. The stock wire is usually 8 gauge, which is sufficient enough for roughly 50 amps. Large amplifiers can pull up and over 200-300amps, so now you see the problem.

When doing this mod, 3 runs of wire will need to be installed. They are:

1. Battery positive (+) to alternator - From the positive terminal on your battery to the alternator positive (+) post
2. Engine block to chassis ground - From engine block to chasis. This is to strengthen the ground.
3. Battery ground (-) to chassis ground - From the negative terminal on your battery to your car's chassis.

I recommend using 1/0 gauge wire. You could use 4 gauge wire if that's all you have laying around, but you might as well use 1/0 the first time so you won't have to go back if you decide to upgrade your system later on down the road. The wire I used was Knu Konceptz 1/0 Kollosus Kable You will also need 1/0 ring terminals to terminate the ends of the wire.

Before you do anything, make sure to be safe. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of your battery before you begin. This makes an incomplete circuit and keeps you safe from sustaining electrical injuries.

First, measure a length of wire to go from your battery positive (+) terminal to your alternator. Make sure to leave a little bit of slack, around 6 inches, so you'll be able to position the cable freely. Terminate the ends of the cable with ring terminals, then connect the wire from battery positive (+) terminal to your alternator. There may be a plastic tab on the alternator post. If there is, go ahead and break it off; it's what I had to do. If you don't remove the plastic tab, you won't be able to remove the nut off of the terminal post.

Adding a fuse to go in between the battery positive (+) and the alternator is highly recommended, but not necessary. There is a small chance that the wire will come lose and short out, but it's a chance some people do not want to take. On the contrary, I have had no problems in the 2 years I've had the big 3 installed while running an unfused wire.

The next step is to run a wire from your engine block to your car's chassis. This step may be difficult because you may have a hard time finding a place on the engine block to attach your wire. Look for a non-essential bolt; do not use a bolt that holds fluids back.

From there, you then need to attach the other end of the wire to your chassis ground location. This ground can be anywhere on your car's chassis/frame, but make sure that you have metal-to-metal contact with the terminal and your ground location. A good start is to follow your stock ground wire back to its grounding location. If there is paint on the ground location you have chosen, you must sand it off until it is bare metal to ensure minimal electrical resistance.

Lastly, the final step is to run a wire from your battery's ground (-) terminal to the ground location on the chassis. Measure the wire and be sure to leave a little slack in case you need it. Then terminate the ends with ring terminals and attach one end to the negative terminal and the other to your grounding location on your chassis (as seen above).

Once you have made the new, beefier battery ground, you can cut off, disconnect, do whatever you want to the stock ground wire because it is not needed anymore. When you think you're finished, go ahead and double check all of your connections making sure that they are snug and tight.

That's it! The "Big 3" is now finished. You should notice a difference in voltage when playing your system at max volume. Before I did this upgrade, my voltage was at about 10v under heavy load. After doing the "Big 3" upgrade, my voltage under heavy load was stabilized at about 11v. Quite a large difference for how much you spent on the wire and terminals. That's why the "Big 3" is considered the first electrical upgrade you should do to ensure consistent power to your amplifiers.

Visit http://www.IsYouGeekedUp.com to see the full guide with pictures.

Car Stereos: All That You May Need

In the old days, you use to buy a car stereo, perhaps with external loudspeakers and that was it! The quality of sound was poor, but you were happy with your new purchase, which was a novelty back then – as you could to listen to tapes as well as radio! These days car audio is more complicated, as stereos and external gadgets have so many new devices and capabilities. If you know what you're looking for, you really can get the best out of you music in your car. Here's a few stereos and gadgets explained to get you on your way to purchasing the right car audio system for you.

CD Player: The title itself states exactly what it does – play CD's – however, it can also play CD-R and CD-RW's. It's a perfect way for those who don't like keeping their original CD's in the car, or for those who regularly download albums from the internet, to play their music. Radios have not dies out yet either, as it is still available on all modern stereo units.

CD Mp3 Player: Listen to your music whatever media it is on! Depending on the stereo's capabilities, you can attach Mp3 players and I-pods directly to your stereo, as well as I-phones on some models.

CD Mp3 Player with Bluetooth: This player is capable of all of the above, plus so much more! Internal Bluetooth will allow you to connect your Bluetooth enabled phone to your stereo, without a single wire! Answer calls, play your music, and ring your friends without even getting your phone out of your pocket.

The Gadgets:

External Speakers: Adding external speakers will often increase sound quality and volume. They will, however, not pick up lower frequencies in your music.

Subwoofers: These nifty speakers are dedicated to lower frequencies, which we know as the ‘bass'. A subwoofer allows you to hear much lower frequencies that normal speakers cannot quite pick up, enabling you to hear the bass in your music.

Amplifier: These are needed to essentially power your external speakers or subwoofers. They aim to amplify the signal, or in lament terms to increase the amount of power to your external speakers or subwoofer, which in turn boosts the subwoofers or speakers performance.

All of these stereos and gadgets are available online and on the high street. If you want to learn more about car audio, including subwoofers and amps have a look at www.bassjunkies.com

About the Author

Marie Coles is a professional writer. She writes informative, yet, dynamic articles for car audio specialists.

Does the remote turn on lead (REM) also turn off an amp?

I am hooking up an amplifier to an aftermarket radio, and I was wanting to make sure the Remote Turn On Lead, (REM), would also turn off the amplifier when the truck is turned off. I do not want the battery to die because the amplifier remains on when the ignition is in the off position. Any ideas or suggestions on this problem would be greatly appreciated.
(I am going to have the amp wired directly to battery, are there better alternatives to this?)

unless you want to spend the money to buy a capacitor to put inline then wiring it directly to the battery is your best bet. just make sure you have a large enough fuse within 12 inches of the battery. as far as the remote turn on lead goes. the remote turn on supplies power to turn the amp on. when the remote turn on lead has no power running through it the amp will turn off. make sure when you hook the system up so that the remote turn on lead is hooked to a wire that is switched by that i mean the wire only gets power when the car is on and is dead when the car is off. if the wire you hook up to is hot or always on the amps will always stay on. if your hooking it up to the REM lead on the radio then that wire will only have power running through it when the radio is on so if your radio turns off when the car is off you should be good.

Bloomfield Life: Police blotter, July 15
* Bloomfield Police were alerted of a burglary to a Grove Street storage unit July 10. Disc jockey equipment is listed as stolen. The missing items include two amplifiers, a Dell DJ station with carrying case, two speakers, two power amp speakers, a disco ball, a smoke machine and power tools.

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