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When you're putting together a system, the three most important components are going to be your signal source, speakers (including subwoofers), and power source. These three elements work together to determine what your system ultimately sounds like.

The Signal Source

An in-dash player is the heart (or brain) of your sound system-it plays your music and sends signals out to the speakers.

What to look for

Music formats: Most units sold these days play regular CDs, and many will play MP3s that you've burned yourself. Others are satellite radio-ready or have CD changer controls. Think about how you listen to music and get the one that's right for you.

Dedicated amplifier preamp outputs: These plugs on the back of the player send your music directly to an amplifier. If you plan on adding a subwoofer you'll need at least one set of preamp outs, more if you plan on adding multiple amps. Look for 4V or higher outputs-they'll send a cleaner, more powerful signal to your amp.

Subwoofer fader: This dedicated fader lets you control the volume of your subwoofer(s) directly from the in-dash player in case you need to take it down (or turn it up) a notch.

Movies and navigation: Some in-dash players let you watch your favorite DVDs, perfect for family vacations. You can even get a unit with built-in GPS navigation, so you never have to stop for directions again.

Accessory inputs: Do you love your iPod® or MyFi(TM)? Many units have special inputs for portable devices, so you can enjoy your digital music and satellite radio on the road.

Speakers

Speakers take the signal from your in-dash player and turn it into sound.

What to look for

Full-range speakers: These speakers reproduce the full range of sound. Upgrading your flimsy factory speakers to new three-way aftermarket models will improve your sound dramatically, making your music clearer and giving you more bass response. Most cars have four two-way speakers-two in the front and two in the rear. Use our fit guide to see what works for you.

Subwoofers: These large speakers are dedicated to reproducing bass frequencies. Normal full-range speakers aren't capable of reproducing the lowest bass notes. Adding a subwoofer or two will really improve bass performance, making all of your music sound deeper and more alive. You'll hear your music the way it was meant to be heard (and felt).

Subwoofer box: Most subwoofers need to be housed in some type of enclosure to make them sound their best. The size and style of the enclosure will depend on the type and size of the subwoofers you purchase, the amount of space available and the amount of bass you're looking for.

Speakers and subs come in many sizes and varieties. To find out what's best for you car, check out our articles on speakers and subs, or visit your local Circuit City store.

The Power Source

An amplifier takes the signal from your in-dash player and makes it bigger and more powerful, then sends it to your speakers. Adding an amp (or two) will not only make your system louder, but will also make everything sound better at low volumes.

What to look for

Multi-amp system: Some people only use an amplifier to power a subwoofer, letting the full-range speakers run directly off the in-dash player's internal power. This can sound fine, but for the best sound possible, opt for separate amps for all of your speakers. One four-channel amp or a pair of two-channel amps will keep highs and mids clear and detailed.

Power: It takes a lot of power to reproduce low bass frequencies, which most in-dash players are incapable of supplying. By giving your subwoofers clean, dedicated power, they won't have to work as hard to reproduce these frequencies. Get the most powerful amp you can afford for your subwoofer-there's nothing worse than mushy bass caused by a lack of power.

Built-in crossover: A crossover helps to ensure that your sub(s) don't try to reproduce anything but bass frequencies by filtering out mids and highs. A crossover can also help filter out bass frequencies if you decide on a multi-amp system.

Accessories

It's time to put your system together, but before you get started, make sure you have all the proper accessories. Here are a few of the things you may need to get everything hooked up:

Wiring harness: You'll need to purchase a wiring harness to connect your new in-dash player to your car's existing wiring. Harnesses are inexpensive and easy to connect, saving you a lot of hassle.

Installation kit: Your factory player was designed specifically to fit your car's dashboard. An installation kit gives you all the hardware you need to give your new in-dash player a seamless factory look.

Amplifier audio cables: You'll need a separate cable for each amp you're connecting to your in-dash player. They're easy to hook up-one end connects to the preamp outputs on the back of your player, and the other end connects to the amp.

Amplifier power kit: Amps get power from your car's electrical system, but they need a separate connection to function properly. A power kit provides everything you need to get your amp hooked up properly, including power cables and fuses. Make sure the power rating on the kit you buy is greater than or equal to the wattage of the amplifier(s) you've chosen.

For a complete selection of quality car audio components, please visit www.DominantCarAudio.com.

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The Ideal Amplifier for your Auto Sound System

Finding the best amplifier for your auto sound system can be a lot easier if you take the time ahead of time to learn what you need and what will work best with the sound system you've selected for your car, truck, or SUV. It helps to understand what an amplifier does in order to purchase the one that will best suit your needs. An amplifier takes a small sound, adds a little boost of its own, and then turns it into a big sound. The more power your amplifier has, the better quality of sound it will provide. An underpowered amplifier will have a thin, tinny sound that is rather unattractive in an auto sound system, or any other sound system for that matter.

You should also take care to remember that the power rating of an amplifier is the maximum power it is capable of expending not the amount that it will regularly use. The RMS rating of an amplifier is a good indication of its power output. One thing that is important to remember is that you should never buy an amplifier based on the maximum output or RMS rating. This number is more often than not incredibly misleading. If a driving, thumping bass beat is important to you then you should make sure that your amplifier has a bass boost button. This button will or switch will give a little bit of a boost to your bass. It's something I can pass on by many bass lovers cannot live without. Not all amplifiers have this so choose wisely and according to your preferences.

When it comes to amplifiers there are essentially four major classes (there are other classes but they are not all that common so I will not dwell on defining them) that represent the quality of sound you should expect from the system.

1) A. This class has a great output of quality sound but wastes huge amounts of energy in the process of creating that wonderful sound.

2) B. This class is slightly better than A as far as it wastes less energy and slightly worse as it produces a somewhat inferior quality of sound.

3) A/B. This resembles either A or B as far as sound and energy waste goes depending on the volume. Lower volumes will utilize the class A qualities of the amplifier while louder volumes are more in keeping with class B.

4) D. This class is primarily decent for producing a good bass sound and little else. The quality of sound and amount of energy wasted are both only moderate and neither are very impressive.

Of course this is the bare bones run through of the very basic amplifier basics. Another thing to note is that many people simply refer to amplifiers as amps rather than saying the entire word. It's slang but it's so common that no one will blink if you do it. In fact you are far more likely to get funny looks for calling it an amplifier. Regardless of the small talk an amplifier isn't the end all be all of an auto sound system. It is only important if you feel it is important and many sound systems work splendidly without an extra amplifier to confuse the process and raise the price.

Whenever you decide to buy a new auto sound system for your car, truck, or SUV there is a moment of exhilaration and excitement as this is often a decision you've mulled over for quite a while rather than a spur of the moment decision. This exhilaration is promptly followed by a moment of complete and utter fear, as most of us have no clue what we really need. Hopefully, this has helped you decide whether or not you will need an amplifier and if you will, perhaps you can make a more educated and informed decision as to the type of amp you need.

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Want to power 4 8 ohm speakers on a 4 ohm 4 channel car amp?....Help Please!?

I have a home theatre system and it is low watts but it is an excellent speaker system and i recently blew the internal amp and now I am just going to use the speakers and power them through an external amp and use them in my car.
My question is what amp should I buy.
I am planning on running 3 25 watt speakers and a 75 watt sub woofer that all run at 8 ohms and I am going to connect them to a 4 channel car amplifier will this work. I want to run them on this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Channel-1600W-Car-Audio-Amplifier-Amp-Amps-Amplifiers_W0QQitemZ200337610578QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item2ea50d5752&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50

The rms on the amp is only 160w so u would be fine with that amp...as far as the 8ohm subs it just means that ur not gonna get as much power as if they were 4ohm....u should wire them down to 4ohm to make everything parrallel and also better quality when they match up ohms....

Pioneer Unveils MK2 Elite G-Clef SACD Players and Amps
Pioneer's new G-Clef products were designed, obviously, with the audiophile in mind. There are two SACD players and two amps, designed to be paired up with one another. The $700 PD-D6MK2 SACD player offers a pair of Burr-Brown DACs and Hi-Bit technology that takes 16-bit audio up to 24, helping to clear up compressed MP3 files. Read more... (http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-news ...

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