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The purpose of fuses

A fuse should be the weakest link in an electrical circuit, so that it burns out before more expensive equipment, or acts as a safety device, to ensure the circuit is not overloaded, causing overheating of wiring, etc.

It is rated in amps. (A), which is the current at which it melts and cuts off the electric current. This is the current flowing from the live terminal. This current usually goes to the neutral terminal, but it could also be leaking to earth. It does not prevent electrocution; it is there to protect the wiring or appliance. Electrocution is only prevented using RCCD circuit breakers, either at the consumer unit (main fuse box) or with an RCCD adaptor or plug at the socket where the appliance is plugged in. 'Retro-fit' MCBs plugged into a consumer unit, in place of fuses, do not prevent electrocution; they merely replace fuses, so that they can be easily reset without needing the expense or trouble of replacing a fuse.

Consumer Unit (Mains Fuse Box) Fuses

Consumer units (in order of age) can have the following types of fuses, or equivalents, fitted:

1. Rewirable fuse holders. These have a fuse wire going through the fuse holder. This comes on a card in 5, 15 and 30A fuse wire, and is often colour coded in white, blue and red respectively.

2. Cartridge fuses These usually are 5A (white) for lighting, 15A (blue) for boilers and similar equipment, 20A (yellow) for boilers, immersion heaters, etc. 30A (red) for power (sockets), and 45A (green) for cookers and showers below 11kW. Apart from the 15 and 20A, they are all different sizes and cannot be interchanged. This is to prevent people fitting a higher fuse that the existing wiring warrants.

3. Retro-fit MCBs These act the same as 2, are colour coded the same, although in some cases the current rating may be a little higher. They are fitted for convenience only, since if they trip, a switch or button has to be reset, instead of the fuse being replaced.

4. RCCD circuit breakers These have to be fitted to a consumer unit designed to take them (they will not fit into the old type of unit). They trip if either the current from live to neutral exceeds their rating, or if there is a leakage from live to earth, usually greater than 30mA, in a short enough time to prevent electrocution. They have a greater range of values than 1,2 and 3, and all new installations should have these fitted.

Fuses or breakers blow if the circuit is overloaded. This can commonly happen if two many high current devices are in use at once, there is a fault with the wiring, or sometimes if an incandescent bulb blows.

Plug fuses

Fuses fitted in plugs are designed to protect the appliance only. The same fuses are also fitted in spurs. They commonly come in 3 current ratings (although others are available). It is important to fit the correct size of fuse in the plug. The 3 common ones are:

3A (red) for all appliances up to 700W. This includes most lights.

5A (black) for appliances up to 1200W.

13A (brown) for appliances above 1200W (to 3250W). This includes most heaters.

If a plug fuse blows it is usually because of a fault in the appliance. In the case of a light, this could merely because the bulb has blown.

Appliance Fuses

These are usually glass, although they can be opaque. They can be quick blow, slow blow or anti-surge. If in doubt, fit a quick blow fuse, as this gives more protection. They come in a vast range of current ratings. This can usually be found on one of the end caps - typically it will say T5A 250V, indicating a 5A fuse. They are usually there to protect a specific part of the appliance; e.g. a fuse at the speaker output of an amplifier will blow if the terminals to the speaker are accidentally short circuited. If this happened without the protection of the fuse, expensive damage to the amplifier could occur. They are also commonly in 2 lengths - 20mm and 32mm. Some fuses are designed to work at higher temperatures. These are usually slow blow, and must be used in microwaves. There is nothing to stop you using these in other appliances too, even though the high temperature rating is not needed.

Barrie Newton B.Sc.
Owner of Rhyl Lightworks Co
http://www.thelightworks.net
or for common fuses see: http://www.thelightworks.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=98

Fashion Tips for Tall Yet Skinny Guys

If you have a thin yet long body frame, and have difficulty look for clothes that is suitable you, do read the following guide. The objective of this artice is to assist thin and tall men to dress sharper and finally have more self belief.

Pick fitting shirts
Loose-fitting, untuckedshirts will bloat around you and make you look as if the mainsail on a mast, so you'll want to select a more fitting shirt instead. Even though you should avoid super tight outfits as they will amplify your skinny upper body, do select slim-cutoutfits and pick up how to use layering to buff up more mass. Always make sure your shirt fits comfortably around your chest and shoulders.

Avoid monochromatic appearance
If you choose a solid color from head to toe (especially black), you will look even narrower than you are, so change up your appearance by wearing an assortment different colors in your overall outlook. Luckily, experimenting with the color palette should be fun and you will get to experiment with a lot of different appearance. For instance, you could pair up with a pair of Italian leather gloves to add a distinct sharpness to your look.

Select lighter shades
Lighter shades will create a illusion that you are bigger than you really are, so select whites, creams, light blues, light grays, and pastels to create the illusion of bulking up.

Do not wear vertical stripes
No woman wants a man who looks like he's withering away, therefore if you're tall and thin, choose horizontal stripes to make you appear more meaty. A single, big horizontal stripe across the chest area can be especially flattering because it will make your shoulders look wider and will make you appear as though you have a great body. You can also select horizontal glen checks to assist you look a little meatier.

Do not wear round-toed shoes
For lengthy men, round toed shoes will make you looknot in proportion. To balance out your shape, purchase square-toed or pointy shoes. When it comes to dress shoes and city shoes, looking out these styles should not be difficult. A good choice is the suave pointed Italian leather shoes. If you're at the gym or playing a sport, however, they will be much more difficult to find, therefore just avoid anything with an overly round shape.

Stay away from skinny jeans
The super skinny woman model/'80s rocker appearance is never a flattering one for a guy, so just say no to skinny jeans. When buying bottoms, pick the classic cut and should remain basic. A straight-cut or boot-cut jean with a long inseam will complement you best.

Dare to wear pants with different motifs, lines, and patterns because they appear bigger. one more method to add volume: test out pants with pleats around the pockets. Cuffs can also give the illusion that you have beefy legs, and well-fitted corduroy pants assist to generate the "beefed-up" legs appearance.

About the Author

The author enjoys style and maintains a site about Italian Leather Jackets. If you have interest about style, do visit www.italianleathernet.com.

Why doesn't sound come out!!? How do I plug in the mixer, audio interface and mic together?

I've got a Behringer UB1002 mixer, Edirol UA-20 audio interface and a Shure Sm58 microphone. I've got the suitable cables to use. I've plugged everything in but nothing comes out!

Basically I plugged the mic into the 1st mic slot. I then connected 2 L+R cables from the Main outs to the 2 L+R 'Audio In'. Finally I connected the interface to my PC's USB. (I've also just downloaded the drivers for the interface) How comes sound doesn't come out. I didn't plug the interface into an amplifier because I wanted to use my computer's speakers. What's wrong? Are there any buttons I'm supposed to press? Both the blue lights are on on the mixer n A.I

The mixers are a little tricky to figure out, but not to fear, it does sound like you've got everything plugged in right. It's either your mixer settings or maybe the audio interface settings (of which I admittedly know little about).

When you speak into the microphone lights should show on the meter on the mixer. If you have no lights you either have a volume turned down on the mixer or the cable isn't connected or functioning properly. We'll ignore the latter, since it sounds like its new. If you have no signal, turn up the channel's gain to somewhere between where it says "line" and "mic" (if your model is the same as the one that we have), turn the channel volume up halfway, turn the headphone volume up halfway, and start raising the master volume. What you may not have known is that the headphone and master volume aren't independent - the signal hits the headphone volume knob first, then the master, so settings on one affect the other. Make sure your EQ settings aren't all down, put them at 50% (neutral).

Get a headphone adapter for the mixer - that way you can monitor the mix right from the get-go, and you know it's getting signal.

I don't know what settings you have on the audio interface - review your manual and make sure it's connected properly and any volume settings are correct.

If it isn't this stuff, then maybe a bad cable or bad setting on the computer somewhere.

Good luck!

Saul

LED lighting control using powerline communication
Understand how the standard powerline can be adapted to control the attributes of many independent LED-based lighting fixtures. LED lamp - Light - Business - Electrical - Materials and Supplies

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