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If you have a home theatre system or a pair of loudspeakers then you will want to get the best possible sound quality and maximum potential from your speaker system. The good news is that you can get a noticeable sound quality difference from your speakers with a minimal investment in good quality speaker wires. In this article we will show you the benefits and explain, in understandable language, the reasons for you to decide if you want to upgrade to the optimum speaker cable to enhance your audio listening experience and overall system sound quality.

Choosing home theatre speaker wire is not an exact science but there are simple rules that you should follow when selecting speaker wire for your audio and hifi system. Many high street hifi shops are happy to sell you expensive speaker cables which may or may not suit your audio system and it is possible to waste hundreds of pounds or dollars on wiring that is certainly unjustified in making any audible difference on most home hi-fi and home cinema systems.

So what should I look for when choosing home theater speaker wire - best tips?

Firstly, you should know how to choose the right gauge of speaker wiring and this is easily done by understanding that a thickness of wire is relative to the gauge or size of the copper conductor/s inside the speaker wire. The gauge number, which is available by the standard AWG or American Wire Gauge, identifies the cable thickness. However, you should note that the lower the gauge of the wire the thicker it will be.

The lower the AWG gauge number of a speaker wire indicates the capacity or ability to more better pass the electrical audio signal through the speaker wiring conductor. The general standard or accepted range of wiring is from 12 to 18 gauge.

When selecting the right gauge speaker wiring for your home theatre, cinema system or hifi then you should take into consideration the general reputation of a supplier and cable manufacturer and the level of sound quality you wish to achieve within your own budget. You will also need to work out the length of your speaker cable installation and how much cable is required to connect the speakers. If you are installing a home theatre and require surround sound system at the back of your room then longer cable runs will be required and you should understand that a long wires runs cause their own problems in relation to loss of sound quality due to electrical current loss through the cable.

As a rule of thumb it is advisable to select speaker wire gauge from the following guideline of distance vs cable gauge:

(1) Distance from hi-fi / home cinema system to loudspeaker (Less than 60 feet)=16 gauge.

(2) Distance from hi-fi / home theatre system to loudspeaker (Less than 60 to 180 feet)=14 gauge.

(3) Distance from hi-fi / home audio system to loudspeaker (More than 180 feet)=12 gauge.

With home theatre speaker wire it is worth considering thicker gauge cable as it can really help you achieve good sound quality results and also as thicker wire handles the electrical signal much better it reduces the resistance of the cable and therefore puts less strain on your amplifier or audio visual receiver thus giving longer life of your amplifier component and providing a better quality sound output which is delivered more easily to your speaker / surround sound system.

Thinner speaker wiring, generally less expensive, is obviously easier to work with when installing around skirting boards or under flooring and choosing a good quality 16 gauge speaker wire will still achieve fantastic results for rear surround sound speakers providing that the cables are made from good quality components and this extends also to the correct use of cable terminators on both amplifier and speaker ends.

Next, get more tips and information on selecting the best speaker cables and home theatre speaker wiring. Visit our website to find the best tips and reviews on speaker cabling @ hi-fi-cables.com for all your Hi-Fi cable requirements.

Ms Val Marks (CEO)

What Is A Load Cell?

By definition a load cell is an electronic device (a transducer) that is used to convert a force into an electrical signal. What does this mean? A load cell is a transducer which converts force into a measurable electrical output. How does this work? The conversion of the force into an electrical current is indirect and happens in two phases. A load cell can consist of one, two or four strain gauges depending on the type of load cell, and it is the strain gauge that converts the force into the electrical current. Now not all load cells use strain gauges, there are many different types such as hydraulic, pneumatic load cells, fibre optic, button and washer load cells to name a few. What can you do with the electrical output? Well before the electrical current can be used the electrical signal output usually requires amplification by an instrumentation amplifier and then it can be used. Load cells are primarily used as a weighing apparatus. The strain gage-based load cell has become the method of choice for industrial weighing applications. Which applications use load cells? To name a few load cells can be found in electronic crane scales, finding the center of gravity of an object by weight, force measurement, force gauge, onboard weighing, railcar weighing, structural health monitoring, and tension measurement. Examples of Digital Load Cells and Their Applications There is a massive variety of load cells today, all of which are better used in certain applications and circumstance than others for example the new compression load cell is used for applications in tough environments. The new beam load cell is great for belt scales, platform scales, filling machines, and process equipment. The single point load cells are usually found in applications such as multihead weighers, checkweighers, filling machines, belt scales, platform scales, and bench scales. Depending on your requirements and the type of weighing you are conducting will depend on the type of load cell you should use.

By definition a load cell is an electronic device (a transducer) that is used to convert a force into an electrical signal. What does this mean? A load cell is a transducer which converts force into a measurable electrical output.

How does this work? The conversion of the force into an electrical current is indirect and happens in two phases. A load cell can consist of one, two or four strain gauges depending on the type of load cell, and it is the strain gauge that converts the force into the electrical current. Now not all load cells use strain gauges, there are many different types such as hydraulic, pneumatic load cells, fibre optic, button and washer load cells to name a few.

What can you do with the electrical output? Well before the electrical current can be used the electrical signal output usually requires amplification by an instrumentation amplifier and then it can be used. Load cells are primarily used as a weighing apparatus. The strain gage-based load cell has become the method of choice for industrial weighing applications.

Which applications use load cells? To name a few load cells can be found in electronic crane scales, finding the center of gravity of an object by weight, force measurement, force gauge, onboard weighing, railcar weighing, structural health monitoring, and tension measurement.

Examples of Digital Load Cells and Their Applications

There is a massive variety of load cells today, all of which are better used in certain applications and circumstance than others for example the new compression load cell is used for applications in tough environments. The new beam load cell is great for belt scales, platform scales, filling machines, and process equipment. The single point load cells are usually found in applications such as multihead weighers, checkweighers, filling machines, belt scales, platform scales, and bench scales. Depending on your requirements and the type of weighing you are conducting will depend on the type of load cell you should use.

About the Author

load cells

Can I run 2 Subs off this monoblock amp?

Here's my amp:
http://au.kenwood.com/Car_Entertainment/Power_Amplifiers/KAC-M615D

It is a mono block, and I'm currently bridging it to run my 1500watt Kenwood sub.
I want to get another sub, just for some added bass.
With the inputs it has + - + -
currently I'm using the outside positive ( + ) and the outside negative ( - ).
If I wanted to hook another sub up, could I use the other connections, or move the existing wires around OR could I fuse the wires of the new sub to the wires of my current one ie neg and neg entwined and positive and positive entwined and just continue to bridge it? (So really it'd be just like putting thicker gauge wire in the inputs that are currently filled)
Would it work? would I lose power doing this apposed to some other technique?

give me some info! cheers guys!
Dose up some skids!!!

If you connect two, 4ohm subwoofers in a parallel configuration to this amplifier, it will run a 2ohm mode and produce the same amount of watts N2Audio said (300). THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT thing you'll read on here: You need to understand that this amplifier is going to be working OVERLY HARD to power two subwoofers of the same one you already have, (and you know you're going to jack up the gain level on the amplifier to get the most power) which will cause distortion to your subwoofers and may ruin your amplifier and subwoofers in a short period of time. So, either down grade your Kenwood subwoofer you have now, which only handles about 700 watts RMS (1500 watts is the peak), and buy a subwoofer that handles 200-300 watts RMS to perform it's best (a subwoofer with a power handling of 200-300 watts RMS that's getting that power, will still play really loud!) with the amplifier you're using, or upgrade the amplifier to power two, higher powered subs. In fact, choosing a subwoofer with a power handling of 200-300 watts RMS for your amplifier, will actually play louder than the subwoofer you already have. This is due to the fact that the subwoofer you're using now is being powered by a "baby" amplifier, compared to the Kenwood subwoofer itself, and that the subwoofer is "looking" for more watts to play it's best, which you're not achieving and is why you want to add a second subwoofer to try and add "extra" bass which will not happen with the amplifier you're using, especially if it's for two, higher powered subs. Hope this helps out a lot!

ATEX approved signal amplifier for load cells
Mantracourt launched the ALA5 load cell amplifier, an ATEX approved strain gauge/load cell amplifier designed for operation within gas atmospheres in hazardous zones 0, 1 & 2 as can be found in processing plants and refineries.

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